Traveling Boy: John Clayton: Is THIS The Most Intriguing Aviation Museum in Germany?

John Clayton: Aviation Museum, Germany

Is THIS The Most Intriguing
Aviation Museum in Germany?

Words and Pictures by John Clayton

assing by in your car there is no indication this had been something special. It is, after all, just a field that appeared to stretch into infinity. But that’s exactly what made it so appealing to the Luftwaffe in WW2. I was with a group of American travel media touring some of the significant places in Germany with a connection to transportation, and this was our first glimpse of the Oberschleissheim Airfield – the oldest still existing such place in all of Germany.

In the past 40 years I’ve been to Germany countless times, and I was always intrigued by how infrequently mention of WW2 came up in a conversation. Unless I’d gone to this airfield’s website, I’d never have known that this was – from 1933 to 1945 – one of the key airbases for the Luftwaffe. Soon after taking power in 1933 the Nazis accelerated the utilization of the airfield for the training of fighter and bomber crews, and no less than the exalted personalities of Erhard Milch, the Secretary for Aviation in Hitler’s hierarchy, and fighter ace Ernst Udet, came to see the fighter school on November the 11th, 1935. It was so important in the last part of WW2, that on April 25th, 1945 allied bombers put it out of action by dumping a huge load of bombs to crater the airfield’s runways – and thus making it unusable.

So, what better place then here, to install one of the most interesting aviation museums in Germany? After the war the US Army used it as a base for helicopters, and in 1968 the German Army also made use of its facilities. Closing in 1981, the airfield and its surrounding buildings began to fall into disrepair. But, thank goodness, in 1988 some far sighted officials saw its historic value and decided to make it into a part of the (famous) Deutches Museum – aviation section, and in 1992 it opened as just that – and believe me, its absolutely fascinating. With over 60 aircraft on display, including helicopters, VTOL, jets, hang gliders, seaplanes, flight simulators, engines etc, it is an aviation aficionado’s heaven.

Fitting into that category like a well worn glove, I was (and hey, still am!) intrigued by everything I saw, and when asked which aircraft I found the most riveting, my answer’s always the same. “There are four. A Fiesler Storch, a unique DC3, a VTOL aircraft, and a flying boat.” But without doubt, the most spellbinding is a fifth aircraft. I remember, as a kid growing up in London during WW2, being mesmerized by a German bomber called the Heinkel 111. Its shape was unique, and as a bomber, it terrified thousands of Brits during its many forays over the UK, especially those over London. Which is why it was eerie to see one up close, and very personal.

partially restored Heinkel 111
No wings, but this is the partially restored classic Heinkel 111.

It had been built, under license, to Spain in 1950, and was sold to the Spanish Air Force. When they’d finished with it in the early 60s, it began to rapidly deteriorate, and in 1968 it was what’s called “written off” as an active aircraft. But then in 1968 it was born again for use in a British movie called "The Battle Of Britain," and was refurbished and repainted as a Nazi bomber. After that it looked as if it might disappear altogether, but again luck stepped in, and in 1977 it was purchased by the Deutches Museum and put into storage. In 2000, it was decided to bring it back to its full Spanish Air Force glory, and a huge restoration project began.

a Fiesler Storch Fi 156
The classic Fiesler Storch – one of the great German military aircraft of WW2.

Any WW2 aficionado can tell you that any time the Germans needed any sort of battlefield overview of how things stood, they used a marvelous aircraft called The Fielser Storch. Well this museum has one, and although its “rebirth” involved using pieces from other aircraft of the same type, it’s still mesmerizing to see a living copy of this classic airplane.

a Dornier 31 VTOL aircraft
Way ahead of its time, this is the unique looking Dornier 31 – the first German VTOL aircraft. Too bad they never pursued this clever technology.

Then there’s the Dornier 31 (what images that name conjures up!!!!) – it was the world’s only VTOL (Vertical Take Off and Landing) fixed wing transport built by the Germans in 1967 for research and flight testing, and only 2 were built, after which the concept “died,” and the aircraft were forgotten. Given the technical expertise required to build such a complicated aircraft, I thought it was inconceivable that no one back then had the foresight to see what an innovative design this was, and I could not understand why work was halted. Even more distressing to any airplane buff, is that after it was decided to NOT move forward with its revolutionary designs, it stood out in the open on Museum Island on the River Isar, and suffered dreadfully for 20 incredible years from the inclement weather. It was eventually disassembled (and restored) and is now on display inside this amazing museum in all its original glory.

a Dornier Do 24-T-3 flying boat
Some might mistake this for a Catalina. But no, it’s the unique German Dornier Do 24-T-3 flying boat.

When you first see the Museum's Dornier Do 24 T-3, you're convinced that what you see before you is a classic Catalina flying boat --- but no, this is a German seaplane that played a vital role in WW2 for the Nazis. It was used as a long range reconnaissance aircraft, as well as a troop transport and was, of course, used extensively in air sea rescues. This one flew until 1969 in the service of Spain, and is yet again one of the many joys of this aviation Mecca.

a Douglas DC3 with modern Luftwaffe markings
A Luftwaffe DC3.

Finally the DC 3. Here’s another classic aircraft that one instantly associates with “things American,” and so to see it in the colors of the modern German Luftwaffe came as a shock – at least to me. This DC 3 was first used by the British RAF for use as a luxury transport for VIP’s, and then flew with the German Air force --- and it’s still in pristine condition.

For anyone that has even the slightest interest in aviation, this museum is a must see place, and is easily accessible from nearby Munich. You get there by S-Bahn train service route S1 to the Freising Airport and Oberschiessheim station. See http://www.deutsches-museum.de/en/ flugwerft/information/ as well as contacting the German National Tourist office at www.cometogermany.com --- I’ve traveled to many of the world's great aviation museums, and I can honestly tell you THIS one is truly worth a visit -- especially for any WW2 buff.

Ringo and Deb can have their Oasis - this to me smacks of heavenly travel - thanks for the article and photos.

Brenda - Richland, WA

Hi John,

I have read a few articles about R for Robert, but yours by far is the best. My grandfather was co-pilot John Slatter (my Dad's dad). It is so neat to hear about ancestry. There is actually a book published called R for Robert. Another interesting detail.... I live in NH, and in 1985 a lawyer with many interests from Concord,NH and a sonar exploration company from Salem, NH were the ones who started the project to pull the Wellington out of the Loch. I am always trying to find information about that side of our family, and love to read articles such as yours. Thanks for the piece.....

Cyndi - Raymond, NH

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Greetings my dear Cyndi

I was born in Kensington in London, and although I've been in this great place called the USA for 48 amazing years, if it is still true that Brits ARE noted for understatement, let me tell you that your email not only made my day, but gave me a huge, huge thrill.

I am a WW2 aficionado, and had one of the biggest "thrill sensations" of my life, when the French government invited me to the 60th Anniversary of D-Day on June 6th, 2004. In fact, I sat 50 feet from world leaders like Bush, Putin, and Queen Elizabeth. When I went to Loch Ness and heard (and saw!) that a wonderful Wellington had crashed there, and that it also pin pointed WHERE it had happened, I was in nirvana. I stood on the side of the road and, as I gazed out at the cold and forbidding waters that day, I was instantly transported back to the time and day when it happened - and in my imagination I saw and heard it all. So to get your amazing and (to me) riveting letter, was and is totally amazing - and wonderful.

John

Hello John,

Ed Boitano (who I met on a Star Clipper cruise in the Mediterranean last July) has sent me a link to your above article on the 'Little Steam Trains of North Wales' which I read with interest. One of the photo captions mentions a sign above the train in Welsh, which says: FFORD ALLAN GOFYNN'R DEITHWYR DDEFNYDDIO'R BONT I GROESI'R LEIN. Rougly translated it is a Notice to travellers to use the bridge to cross the line. In Welsh bont is a bridge or archway, Groesi is a crossing, Lein a line, (in this case a rail line or alternative it could mean a line-out (as in Rugby football - but that's another game!) Although born in Wales as Ed may tell you my Welsh is very limited, but trust this answers your question and it amuses! Kind regards,

John Dann - Hove, East Sussex, England

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How wonderful to know that people in Hove (for heavens sakes!) are reading Traveling Boy. I remember -- with much fondness --- visiting Hove during my early years in the UK - charming and very British, so I hope it is still that way and that it has NOT been over run with neon signs and crass commercialism.

Thanks too for your comment about the Welsh wording on the bridge. There were so many wonderful things that intrigued me about Wales, and one of them was - and is! - the language. I mean you'd see this long series of words in Welsh, and then underneath it would give the British translation, and it'd very often be only one or two words. I attach a photo I took of a road sign to illustrate my point. In any event, thanks for your kind words and interesting feedback. MOST appreciated.

John

Dear John,

Your website is fantastic. I am building a Messerschmitt BF109E Model in Balsa Wood and I have a problem in finding the numbers of its original colour (BF 109E-3 with a Donald Duck painted at rear of Romania.)I've been looking around and tried to see through the internet but can't find any help. Please if you have this information and can help me, I would appreciate it very much and I thank you in advance I send you my best regards,

Philip Vella - St. Julians, Malta

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Hi Philip,

Very nice to get your email and I'm so glad you like what you've seen and read on Traveling boy. Sadly, I do not have the answer to your question either. I do, however, have one suggestion and idea.

Among all my aviation books form that period, I have one called "Aircraft of World War 2." It is published by Chartwell Books, 114 Northfield Avenue, Edison, New Jersey 08837, USA. The editorial and design was done by Amber Books at Bradley Close, 74-77 White Lion Street, London N1 9PF, England. Their website is www.amberbooks.co.uk.

As the above book is jam packed with fascinating facts about all the aircraft from WW2, I feel that if you write to both of them with your question, they might be able to help you. The book is written by Robert Jackson and he seems to be a mountain of information. Google his name and see what comes up.

John

Hello John, I don't know if you remember me or not but my name is Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr. I flew for Cal from 1964 to 2003. I got the article you did on Wes Coss from the Cal Chief Pilots office. The communications people forwarded the article to them. Anyway, I sent the article to the Golden Contrails editor and he is going to include the article in our next edition. The contrails is the publication of our retired group the Golden Eagles.

I have read the book and it was great. It would make a good movie. I also sent your article to my old banker, who is a airplane and WWII nut and I think he is sending you an article about the underground in WWII. He writes articles of interest in a weekly local paper in Liberty County, TX.

I will quit rambling and just wanted to let you know your fine article on Wes will be appreciated by many.

Regards,

Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr., Huffman, TX

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Sir...A good friend, a captain with Continental Airlines, Cliff Pleggenkuhle sent me your website. Indeed, your story about the great escape (albeit brief) was one that should be shared. Chuck Yeager also made his way to Spain and his story was somewhat similar. But it takes a real writer to set the plan in motion (and I really mean...motion) as you have done.

I'm taking the liberty to send you a copy of my newspaper column about another hero that I have known. Ironically, your mention of the escape of Wes being true can set aside the Great Escape of Stalag whatever. The untrue part that it was led by an American pilot when actually it was a Dutch pilot named Bob Vanderstock and others. When I went to Belgium with my friend Pieter Cramerus, a Dutch ace who flew Spitfires during WWII for the RAF, he told me about his friend Vanderstock's escape. Then, he introduced to me this fantastic former agent of the Belgium Underground who married his cousin. The rest is in the article. I hope you enjoy it. Thanks again for your expertise in writing the word.

Bob Jamison, Dayton, TX

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You're getting some serious journalism on your site! Literary indeed. Award-winning potential, and I'm not just talking about YOUR stuff!!

Terry Cassel

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Greetings....

Of all the stories I've written in my lifetime, I cannot think of any one that gave me as much pleasure and joy, in writing the piece about Wes. It required all my best "creative juices," and also - truly thrilling for me - gave me a marvelous opportunity to put words together about battle, about flying and about military history. Knowing how important editing is to any story, and to a reader's enjoyment of same (in other words it has to flow freely and be very concise) I wrote the article in one sitting, and then re-wrote it six times.

I have no idea who this Terry Cassel is, but I cannot tell you how thrilled and how, yes overwhelmed I am, by his brief (editing again proving that less is more) comments about my story. Thank you Ed for giving me this opportunity to put THIS story on the amazing Traveling Boy website. And Wes, thank you for allowing me to chat with you and glean from you (and then your book!) all the fascinating stuff that came together as my article.

Thanks must also go to my wife and my two daughters who have always believed in me, and who (as Father's Day has just passed) gave me the most wonderful and heart wrenching Father's Day cards imaginable. I have always told them that anything is achievable and possible, and that one should NEVER give up. Keep on knocking on doors and even if 20 are closed in your face, if you find yourself knocking on the 21st one, that'll very probably will be THE one that opens up for you - and demonstrates that your determination to never take NO as any sort of answer is a key part of success.

Finally, all of this has only been made reality, by my living and working in this place called the United States of America. Thank you all for everything.

John

Thanks so much for sharing this great story - I am going to copy it to VB who runs the Travel Journalism awards.

Fiona Stewart, Edinburgh

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John,

Nice piece. I adore Scotland, wish I could live there someday...

Chris, Pawling, NY

I enjoyed reading your piece on France; it was very informative. Unfortunately, I've spent very little time in France; it's more to the favor of my oldest brother. But your words painted a good picture.

Danny Simon

Hi John, I am a friend of your daughter Heidi and she sent me your link so I could read your articles. I have heard so many things about you from her but reading your article I can see why she is so proud to call you her Dad. Your writing transported me to Chewton Glen, I hope to one day be lucky enough to stay there!

Frances Crymble, Auckland, NZ

You describe a city on wheels - er, wings - and an absolutely perfect way to travel. SHOWERS & FLOWERS! Amazing! I love that your passion for all-things-aviation comes through in this story about an almost unbelievable airplane. Thanks for breaking the news in such an engaging way!

Richard Frisbie, Saugerties, New York

Good article on the biggest commercial airplane in the world. Very interesting. Love your easy personal writing style. Can't wait to get inside one of these sky monsters. I wonder how they will ever recoup their expenses. But then again, with the Arab nations overflowing with cash I shed no tear of sympathy. If anyone has to beta test these babies, it should be them.

Peter Paul, South Pasadena

Dear John Clayton:

Thank you very much for your enthusiastic report on the Zeppelin Museum. I am very pleased you like it as we -- the people working there -- do. We try to collect everything on Zeppelins and to make it available to visitors. Only the number of visitors I would like to correct: since the opening in 1996 we hosted more than 3,600,000 people. So we are among the most visited museums in Germany.Thank you very much again -- and kindest regards,

Ursula ZellerDirector

Hi John,

I know the places you describe in your aticle, and I usually feel exactly the same as you did, when I wander in the countryside - I live in this region.How could this places, so peaceful today, be such a hell for some men? But if you're attentive to many details in the ground and the scenary, finding shell shrapnels and tumb stones for example, then you begin to understand

Thank you John.

Florence L.
City: France

John,

It's as if I was there with you. I grew up with Sgt York comic books. To see the real place where a real person so heroically saved the day is something I never expected to experience. Thanks for the historical detail and great photos.

Richard Frisbie
City: Saugerties

John,

As a history and Churchill buff, I found your article to be chilling. I hope someday to make it to the museum. Is the CWR at all part of the Imperial War Museum? I don't know how I missed it in my only trip to London back in 2000.

Thanks again,

Gary Avrech
City: Santa Monica

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Hey Gary....

Yes it is. If you go online and click on the IWM website, you'll find out even more information about this intriguing museum. Thanks for your times and words.

John

John,

Very excited to see your appearance in the Boitano Blog. I don't know who the hell all those Boitanos are, but I know who John Clayton is! Hey, I wrote a note on your column on the Cabinet War Rooms. I'll be a regular reader. I certainly hope all are well and happy on the Peninsula and that all your travels are still terrific.

Ed P

John,

I urge anyone traveling to London to put the Cabinet War Rooms high on their "must see" list. All who've taken my advice have thanked me, just like I thanked you, and do so again, for recommending the museum to me years ago. But then, it's just one of many suggestions of yours, every one brilliant!

Ed
Port St. Lucie, FL

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