Traveling Boy: John Clayton: Saxony Steam Train

John Clayton: Saxony Steam Train

view of lush countryside from Fichtelberg Mountain Railroad steam train
Countryside Tranquility
The Fichtelberg Mountain Railroad steam train passes through some peaceful and "one-of-a-kind" fairy tale like settings, as shown here.

A Scintillating Steam Safari
In Saxony

Words and Photos by John Clayton

t could have been the opening for a James Bond movie, or even one of those wonderful black and white mystery movies of the 30s or 40s. The station was deserted. The mountain air was crisp and biting, and there was a slight hint of rain, as dark clouds scudded across the grey and leaden sky. She sat there alone and waited. Little bursts of steam shot out from her wheels now and then, and one could smell that magic aroma that only steam trains provide. The 4 old, wooden style coaches that hung lazily behind her, all seemed to be waiting for passengers - yet none came.

With a shrill blast from her whistle that wheezed forth from her innards, the sound reverberated throughout the empty station, bounced off the greener than green hillsides, and drifted down into the valleys and lakes that lay below where it came to rest. If some shady character had indeed boarded, then he or she must have done so in total secrecy, as the 50 plus year old steam engine, number 99-1608-1, emitted a thunderous huff and puff, and great clouds of white smoke surged skywards, as she began to move from the station in the truly Bond sounding village of Cranzahl in Germany's Saxony district. Like all steam trains, that whiff of smoke (unique to them alone), was proof positive of the worldwide appeal of such man made machines.

Anyone taking a closer look at this marvelous piece of human engineering must have wondered, as I did when I was on board this steam train recently, how all the hundreds of moving parts fit together, and moved in perfect unison. How could the human mind create so many countless small, big and almost everything in between parts, that made this little iron giant move ahead?

She huffed and puffed her way through a quaint and artistic countryside, filled with winding trails, narrow gulleys, and little doll like houses that dotted the landscape, and made you feel as if you were in a Hans Christian Anderson fairytale. Passing through a truly tiny village, a grizzled old man appeared by the side of the track and waved. Was this for real, or was he some sort of Disneyesque character laid on by the railroad? No, he was just one of the few folks who appeared from time to time to wave --- or just look and stare.

Rushing streams so crystal clear you thought it was a mirage, passed by in a flash, and down below we saw lovely lakes and even bigger rivers - this was an 11 mile journey from Cranzhall to the highest town in Germany, the spa center of Oberwiesenthal, and this was (now get THIS name) The Fichtelberg Mountain Railroad in the Upper Ore Mountains. Our so called Little Giant had an amazing 600 hp under its iron hood, and a top speed of 15 mph - not nearly enough for a fast getaway for any James Bond type character, but slow enough for any steam buff to relish the ride, and enjoy mesmerizing scenery that gave the senses and one's imagination, picturesque towns and villages along its captivating route of travel. Whether it was marvelous meadows or bewitching forests so closely knit together you wondered how the trees managed to breathe, this was a tourist delight in every way, shape or form.

As we trundled our way across this lush landscape, it was hard to realize that during our slow one hour journey, the train had climbed 780 feet in altitude. The James Bond connection became even more vivid as we crossed a 75 foot high, 360 foot long viaduct. Surely this was THE scenic place for one of Bond's opponents to appear, and tangle with 007. But no-one appeared.

Although I'm an adult, I felt a twinge of sadness, and yes tears welled up in my eyes as we entered the final station and marshaling yard at Oberwiesenthal, and I knew this magical journey was over. For steam buffs around the world who want to enjoy steam train nirvana almost everywhere, a visit to Saxony is a must --- it has more steam trains and related museums etc, than any other part of Germany. See for yourself at www.saxon-steam.com or see the German National Tourist Office website.

Fichtelbergbahn Mountain Railway Specifics

Open all year long, this magical narrow gauge railroad has a track width of 750 meters, with five superb chuffing, puffing locomotives, built between 1952-56. It's also worth noting that steam trains have been running on this route since July, 1897! Photo and video railroad buffs will have a field day filming and shooting nifty photos as this classic train huffs and puffs its way and along its scenic mountain route - even better, you cross 6 bridges, and stop at no less than 9 stations - many so small that unless you knew they were there, you'd miss them altogether. Picture taking can be done from either the carriage (be sure to open the sometimes difficult to open window) or out on the trestle between coaches.

train conductor standing amidst wooden seats inside steam train

A Real Life Conductor
One of the many joys of riding this train is the fact that one is reminded of how steam train travel used to be "back in the day.” In this case it is this (at least to me!) wonderful looking train conductor who walks through the train taking tickets. His uniform is, so he told us, just like it was all those years ago. Please note too, the hard wooden seats! No first class travel here, but what a wonderful, memory laden train trip this is – I urge you to do it if you’re in this part of Germany.

steam train taking in water for its engine
Taking on water!
Anyone who knows anything about steam travel knows that they had to have lots of water. And here is our engine doing just that as she pauses midway along the one hour journey. A great time for video and picture taking!

Name:	Required
E-mail:	Required
City:	Required
Feedback:

John, Your refection on how young those can be who die in war reminded me of the A.E. Houseman poem at the entrance to the Fighter Command museum in London (beside the photo and engine of the RAF fighter pilot who died in the Battle of Britain): "Here dead lie we because we did not choose to live and shame the land from which we sprung. Life, to be sure, is nothing much to lose; But young men think it is, and we were young."

Eric, San Diego, CA

Ringo and Deb can have their Oasis - this to me smacks of heavenly travel - thanks for the article and photos.

Brenda - Richland, WA

Hi John,

I have read a few articles about R for Robert, but yours by far is the best. My grandfather was co-pilot John Slatter (my Dad's dad). It is so neat to hear about ancestry. There is actually a book published called R for Robert. Another interesting detail.... I live in NH, and in 1985 a lawyer with many interests from Concord,NH and a sonar exploration company from Salem, NH were the ones who started the project to pull the Wellington out of the Loch. I am always trying to find information about that side of our family, and love to read articles such as yours. Thanks for the piece.....

Cyndi - Raymond, NH

* * * *

Greetings my dear Cyndi

I was born in Kensington in London, and although I've been in this great place called the USA for 48 amazing years, if it is still true that Brits ARE noted for understatement, let me tell you that your email not only made my day, but gave me a huge, huge thrill.

I am a WW2 aficionado, and had one of the biggest "thrill sensations" of my life, when the French government invited me to the 60th Anniversary of D-Day on June 6th, 2004. In fact, I sat 50 feet from world leaders like Bush, Putin, and Queen Elizabeth. When I went to Loch Ness and heard (and saw!) that a wonderful Wellington had crashed there, and that it also pin pointed WHERE it had happened, I was in nirvana. I stood on the side of the road and, as I gazed out at the cold and forbidding waters that day, I was instantly transported back to the time and day when it happened - and in my imagination I saw and heard it all. So to get your amazing and (to me) riveting letter, was and is totally amazing - and wonderful.

John

Hello John,

Ed Boitano (who I met on a Star Clipper cruise in the Mediterranean last July) has sent me a link to your above article on the 'Little Steam Trains of North Wales' which I read with interest. One of the photo captions mentions a sign above the train in Welsh, which says: FFORD ALLAN GOFYNN'R DEITHWYR DDEFNYDDIO'R BONT I GROESI'R LEIN. Rougly translated it is a Notice to travellers to use the bridge to cross the line. In Welsh bont is a bridge or archway, Groesi is a crossing, Lein a line, (in this case a rail line or alternative it could mean a line-out (as in Rugby football - but that's another game!) Although born in Wales as Ed may tell you my Welsh is very limited, but trust this answers your question and it amuses! Kind regards,

John Dann - Hove, East Sussex, England

* * * *

How wonderful to know that people in Hove (for heavens sakes!) are reading Traveling Boy. I remember -- with much fondness --- visiting Hove during my early years in the UK - charming and very British, so I hope it is still that way and that it has NOT been over run with neon signs and crass commercialism.

Thanks too for your comment about the Welsh wording on the bridge. There were so many wonderful things that intrigued me about Wales, and one of them was - and is! - the language. I mean you'd see this long series of words in Welsh, and then underneath it would give the British translation, and it'd very often be only one or two words. I attach a photo I took of a road sign to illustrate my point. In any event, thanks for your kind words and interesting feedback. MOST appreciated.

John

Dear John,

Your website is fantastic. I am building a Messerschmitt BF109E Model in Balsa Wood and I have a problem in finding the numbers of its original colour (BF 109E-3 with a Donald Duck painted at rear of Romania.)I've been looking around and tried to see through the internet but can't find any help. Please if you have this information and can help me, I would appreciate it very much and I thank you in advance I send you my best regards,

Philip Vella - St. Julians, Malta

* * * *

Hi Philip,

Very nice to get your email and I'm so glad you like what you've seen and read on Traveling boy. Sadly, I do not have the answer to your question either. I do, however, have one suggestion and idea.

Among all my aviation books form that period, I have one called "Aircraft of World War 2." It is published by Chartwell Books, 114 Northfield Avenue, Edison, New Jersey 08837, USA. The editorial and design was done by Amber Books at Bradley Close, 74-77 White Lion Street, London N1 9PF, England. Their website is www.amberbooks.co.uk.

As the above book is jam packed with fascinating facts about all the aircraft from WW2, I feel that if you write to both of them with your question, they might be able to help you. The book is written by Robert Jackson and he seems to be a mountain of information. Google his name and see what comes up.

John

Hello John, I don't know if you remember me or not but my name is Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr. I flew for Cal from 1964 to 2003. I got the article you did on Wes Coss from the Cal Chief Pilots office. The communications people forwarded the article to them. Anyway, I sent the article to the Golden Contrails editor and he is going to include the article in our next edition. The contrails is the publication of our retired group the Golden Eagles.

I have read the book and it was great. It would make a good movie. I also sent your article to my old banker, who is a airplane and WWII nut and I think he is sending you an article about the underground in WWII. He writes articles of interest in a weekly local paper in Liberty County, TX.

I will quit rambling and just wanted to let you know your fine article on Wes will be appreciated by many.

Regards,

Cliff Pleggenkuhle, Jr., Huffman, TX

* * * *

Sir...A good friend, a captain with Continental Airlines, Cliff Pleggenkuhle sent me your website. Indeed, your story about the great escape (albeit brief) was one that should be shared. Chuck Yeager also made his way to Spain and his story was somewhat similar. But it takes a real writer to set the plan in motion (and I really mean...motion) as you have done.

I'm taking the liberty to send you a copy of my newspaper column about another hero that I have known. Ironically, your mention of the escape of Wes being true can set aside the Great Escape of Stalag whatever. The untrue part that it was led by an American pilot when actually it was a Dutch pilot named Bob Vanderstock and others. When I went to Belgium with my friend Pieter Cramerus, a Dutch ace who flew Spitfires during WWII for the RAF, he told me about his friend Vanderstock's escape. Then, he introduced to me this fantastic former agent of the Belgium Underground who married his cousin. The rest is in the article. I hope you enjoy it. Thanks again for your expertise in writing the word.

Bob Jamison, Dayton, TX

* * * *

You're getting some serious journalism on your site! Literary indeed. Award-winning potential, and I'm not just talking about YOUR stuff!!

Terry Cassel

* * * *

Greetings....

Of all the stories I've written in my lifetime, I cannot think of any one that gave me as much pleasure and joy, in writing the piece about Wes. It required all my best "creative juices," and also - truly thrilling for me - gave me a marvelous opportunity to put words together about battle, about flying and about military history. Knowing how important editing is to any story, and to a reader's enjoyment of same (in other words it has to flow freely and be very concise) I wrote the article in one sitting, and then re-wrote it six times.

I have no idea who this Terry Cassel is, but I cannot tell you how thrilled and how, yes overwhelmed I am, by his brief (editing again proving that less is more) comments about my story. Thank you Ed for giving me this opportunity to put THIS story on the amazing Traveling Boy website. And Wes, thank you for allowing me to chat with you and glean from you (and then your book!) all the fascinating stuff that came together as my article.

Thanks must also go to my wife and my two daughters who have always believed in me, and who (as Father's Day has just passed) gave me the most wonderful and heart wrenching Father's Day cards imaginable. I have always told them that anything is achievable and possible, and that one should NEVER give up. Keep on knocking on doors and even if 20 are closed in your face, if you find yourself knocking on the 21st one, that'll very probably will be THE one that opens up for you - and demonstrates that your determination to never take NO as any sort of answer is a key part of success.

Finally, all of this has only been made reality, by my living and working in this place called the United States of America. Thank you all for everything.

John

Thanks so much for sharing this great story - I am going to copy it to VB who runs the Travel Journalism awards.

Fiona Stewart, Edinburgh

* * * *

John,

Nice piece. I adore Scotland, wish I could live there someday...

Chris, Pawling, NY

I enjoyed reading your piece on France; it was very informative. Unfortunately, I've spent very little time in France; it's more to the favor of my oldest brother. But your words painted a good picture.

Danny Simon

Hi John, I am a friend of your daughter Heidi and she sent me your link so I could read your articles. I have heard so many things about you from her but reading your article I can see why she is so proud to call you her Dad. Your writing transported me to Chewton Glen, I hope to one day be lucky enough to stay there!

Frances Crymble, Auckland, NZ

You describe a city on wheels - er, wings - and an absolutely perfect way to travel. SHOWERS & FLOWERS! Amazing! I love that your passion for all-things-aviation comes through in this story about an almost unbelievable airplane. Thanks for breaking the news in such an engaging way!

Richard Frisbie, Saugerties, New York

Good article on the biggest commercial airplane in the world. Very interesting. Love your easy personal writing style. Can't wait to get inside one of these sky monsters. I wonder how they will ever recoup their expenses. But then again, with the Arab nations overflowing with cash I shed no tear of sympathy. If anyone has to beta test these babies, it should be them.

Peter Paul, South Pasadena

Dear John Clayton:

Thank you very much for your enthusiastic report on the Zeppelin Museum. I am very pleased you like it as we -- the people working there -- do. We try to collect everything on Zeppelins and to make it available to visitors. Only the number of visitors I would like to correct: since the opening in 1996 we hosted more than 3,600,000 people. So we are among the most visited museums in Germany.Thank you very much again -- and kindest regards,

Ursula ZellerDirector

Hi John,

I know the places you describe in your aticle, and I usually feel exactly the same as you did, when I wander in the countryside - I live in this region.How could this places, so peaceful today, be such a hell for some men? But if you're attentive to many details in the ground and the scenary, finding shell shrapnels and tumb stones for example, then you begin to understand

Thank you John.

Florence L.
City: France

John,

It's as if I was there with you. I grew up with Sgt York comic books. To see the real place where a real person so heroically saved the day is something I never expected to experience. Thanks for the historical detail and great photos.

Richard Frisbie
City: Saugerties

John,

As a history and Churchill buff, I found your article to be chilling. I hope someday to make it to the museum. Is the CWR at all part of the Imperial War Museum? I don't know how I missed it in my only trip to London back in 2000.

Thanks again,

Gary Avrech
City: Santa Monica

* * * *

Hey Gary....

Yes it is. If you go online and click on the IWM website, you'll find out even more information about this intriguing museum. Thanks for your times and words.

John

John,

Very excited to see your appearance in the Boitano Blog. I don't know who the hell all those Boitanos are, but I know who John Clayton is! Hey, I wrote a note on your column on the Cabinet War Rooms. I'll be a regular reader. I certainly hope all are well and happy on the Peninsula and that all your travels are still terrific.

Ed P

John,

I urge anyone traveling to London to put the Cabinet War Rooms high on their "must see" list. All who've taken my advice have thanked me, just like I thanked you, and do so again, for recommending the museum to me years ago. But then, it's just one of many suggestions of yours, every one brilliant!

Ed
Port St. Lucie, FL

Stay tuned.