Traveling Boy: Ringo Boitano: My Irish Dream Vacation

Ringo Boitano: Template

sheep pasture land near shore

My Irish Dream Vacation
By Ringo Boitano
Photographs by Deb Roskamp

memorial to the Great Famine victims of 1845-49

e woke up to the sound of whistling tea kettle. The rich black tea was to be part of our breakfast on this first trip to Ireland, a dream in itself. It has been said that all Irish homes become a bed and breakfast during the summer, and this cottage with one spare room in County Donegal in the Northwest corner of Ireland was no exception. The owners fussed over us at the table as we enjoyed a traditional Ulster Fry - eggs, bacon, sausages, black pudding, grilled tomatoes, soda farl (breadcakes leavened with soda and buttermilk) and potato cakes. They told us of the area’s attractions and educated us on the Great Famine (1845-48) where more than one million people died of starvation and over two and half million emigrated due to the potato blight. Their description was so compelling that it sounded as if it had just happened yesterday. Later we followed their directions and found a genuine famine pot in the middle of a forest, where locals placed food for the displaced victims.

massive standing stones, Carrowmore Neolithic Cemetery

We headed down the road to County Sligo for a pilgrimage to the gravesite of WB Yeats, and soon found ourselves stuck in the car, avoiding a heavy downpour. We didn’t mind; we read Yeats and gazed in awe at the deep green hillside. Once the rain stopped, we stumbled upon Carrowmore Neolithic Cemetery, the site of 30 tombs circled by massive standing stones, dating back to 4300 and 3500 BC. To this day no one knows who these people were and how they were able to move such mammoth boulders. We both could feel the power of the setting and something came over us, and before we knew it, we were renewing our wedding vows. After a Sunday pub meal of lamb, potatoes and Guinness we found another B&B, where (once again) we were the only guests. We wanted to take the owner home with us, and to this day remain in contact.

rocks on shore

The next day, it was a drive through the sweeping Connemara, a location that Dickens described as a place of 'terrible beauty.' We pulled off the road to study a famine trail, a site where 80 or so famine victims trekked to a manor’s house in the hopes of food, only to be turned away. As we departed down the road, we both commented that we had not seen a single car for over half an hour. A second later there was a rumbling on the road. We had a flat, not unusual on these rock-strewn Irish roads. Faced with having to unpack our little rental just to find the spare tire and equipment was a daunting thought. Before we knew it, two cars, each arriving from the opposite direction, appeared out of nowhere. The drivers both hopped out and quickly changed our tire. They barely stuck around for a handshake. It was dark when we arrived at our next B&B. We awoke the next morning to find ourselves in the middle of a fjord. It was the town of Liane, where the film “The Field” was made. In the village’s main pub there is large paintings the film’s star, Richard Harris, who once described his face as looking like five miles of bad Irish road. We now had a first-hand account of bad Irish roads, and felt we had even a greater connection to Harris. With talk of Irish films on our tongues, we decided to stop by the village of Cong, and trace locations that John Ford had used in “The Quiet Man.’ Eventually we made it down to the musical town of Doolin, a former fishing village on the northwest coast of County Clare. World renowned as the traditional music capital of Ireland, this for us was an adult Disneyland, where we found three pubs specializing in Irish session music. Each of our three nights we hung with locals and like-minded tourists, had big pub meals of lamb and potatoes or bacon and cabbage, then nursed glorious pint after pint of Guinness as we listened to reels, jigs and haunting ballads. Our daytimes were spent on trips to the Aran Islands, the Cliffs of Moher, a Dolomite burial site and local castles. We carry the memories of Ireland with us wherever we go. Erin Go Bragh!

cross monument

a pair of sheep near on the coast

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I love Ringo's piece on historic hotels. I once stayed at the Laurentian in Montreal - is it still around, is it historic? And then there was the Heups in Bismark.

It is interesting that two of your entries are in CANADA.

Brent, Seattle, WA

It's no mystery that you are great at what you do.

Sandee, Seattle, WA

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The Mystery on the Oasis pics are very funny!

Ramon, Kansas City, MO

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Ha ha ha ha ha...love your "schtick" Ringo!!

Dolly, Las Vegas, NV

Hello the travelling Boitano's hope you enjoy. Best wishes.

Elsa Magdalena Berno-Boitano, Laussane, Switzerland

My Irish roots understand terrible beauty. So do my human roots. The concept has such a ring of truth to it, doesn't it? Great article, Ringo. I hope to get to Ireland eventually, and thanks for blazing the trail!

Sandeee Bleu, Seattle, WA

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No wonder I've been hearing all these wonderful stories about Ireland. I used to think that it was just for Irish Americans seeking their ancestral roots but your article seems to call out to the non-Irish like me. Fascinating and intriguing.

Peter Paul, Pasadena, CA

Thanks for this great post wow... it's very wonderful.

Key Logger, New York

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Lets not forget that the Marriot Harbor Beach is within walking distance to the world famous Elbo Room - Fort Lauderdale's oldest bar.

Jeff, Fort Lauderdale, FL

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Jeff–

Thanks for taking the time for the message and reminder. Indeed, I had a quick drink at the Elbo Room. My trip to Ft. Lauderdale would not have been complete without a visit to this historic institution.I have been reading about it for years, and was not disappointed. It felt like a real local's hangout.

- Ringo

Ringo,

I thoroughly enjoyed your article about Dick and Liz. I remember seeing that article back in the heyday of Life Magazine.

To remember the "behind-the-scenes" stories like that makes you genuine fan of the 60's. The famous couple's turbulent relationship was just a precursor of today's headline-grabbing media stars like Britney Spears and her colleagues. Life was simpler then. The paparazzis still had some sense of decency. You "coulda" been a good paparazzi. I say "coulda" because you kept this to yourself all these many years.

Looking forward to other media trivia you can remember.

Peter Paul, South Pasadena, CA

Hey, Ringo –

Enjoyed your article on Antarctica --- cool photos, too. One thing, you mentioned that Ushuaia in Argentina is considered the most southern city in the world. I read that Chile lays claim to that distinction, with Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in the world.

Mick, Greenbay, WI

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Mick –

Now that football season is over --- I’ve often wondered what you Packer fans did in the off season ---- it’s great that you took the time to visit TravelingBoy. Great question, unlike my older brother, I adore all lamb products, and Patagonian Lamb --- cooked in a restricted area at the restaurant in an opened wood-fueled fire pit --- is amazing. The chef actually uses an ax to carve it. Frankly, I found it superior to Norwegian fjord lamb, Irish Burren lamb and even those much esteemed creatures down in New Zealand. The crab in Ushuaia is the other thing to eat. Wait a sec, you asked about Punta Arenas vs. Ushuaia as the furthermost city in the world. Well, they both have little disclaimers re populations --- you know, what’s a city, which one is a town, ect – so better let Chile and Argentina brass it out. They seem to be able to argue about any subject.

- Ringo

Stay tuned.