Destination Dalmatian Riviera: 
            Dubrovnik or Bust 
            (Dispatch #13)
            Story and photos by Tom Weber
            
          
         t's 
          an Edward Bulwer-Lytton kinda morning, not night  dark and stormy 
           as the intrepid "band of merry media," 18 travel writers 
          and photographers invited by Insight 
          Vacations (Insight) to sample a portion of its Bosnia and Dalmatian 
          Riviera itinerary, batten down the hatches on our sleek motor coach 
          while the strong Bora wind blows and heavy rain pelts our ferry boat, 
          bobbing and weaving in the Adriatic, as it navigates away from the island 
          of Korčula 
          and heads to nearby Orebić on terra firma. 
          
        When I received my invite to board this 
          eight-day Insight journey it read: "Experience the sun-drenched 
          Dalmatian Riviera." Not this day, my friend. But, hey, nothing's 
          perfect and a bit of inclement weather won't dampen our spirits as we 
          cruise southward across the scenic Peljeac Peninsula via the historic 
          and reconstructed Napoleon Road. 
          
        Covered in evergreen vegetation  
          Mediterranean plant life, fruit trees, olive groves and vineyards  
          this route, built by Emperor Bonaparte two centuries ago, today is one 
          of Croatia's impressive wine roads as our business-class legroom coach 
          comes to a full stop alongside Vinarija Vukas, the Vukas 
          Winery, at the top of a hill in the village of Ponikve. 
          
        It's only 11:00 a.m., but we're up for 
          a wine tasting. After all, we are the "band of merry media." 
          Need I say more. 
          
        The plaque on the main winery wall tells 
          it all, Doktor Vina (Doctor of Wine), as Dubvrako "Doc" 
          Vukas, the co-owner of the 60+ year-old, family-run estate, wastes no 
          time and quickly introduces us to rakija, a brandy made in a 
          variety of flavors that's the national firewater all across the Balkans. 
          
        "We use it as an aperitif," our 
          host tells us, as we queue up and pick our fruit-flavored potent potable. 
          I select lemon. It goes down smoothly warming my insides, then suddenly 
          explodes. Whoa! 
          
        Cultivating only Plavac Mali  
          the "little blue" love child of Zinfandel and Dobričić 
          grapes  the wines that emerge from the Vukas estate are robust, 
          to say the least. 
        Along with nibbles of local cheese and 
          homemade bread dipped in the estate's extra virgin olive oil, we sample 
          a trio: the white Rukatac (13.1%) and the reds Mato (15.1%) and Plerej 
          Grand Cru (16.2%). 
        Swirl. Smell. Sip. 
          
        Heads a bit cloudy, like the weather outside, 
          we bid farewell to our affable host, clamber back on board the motor 
          coach and head further south along the Adriatic Highway, stopping just 
          short of the Most dr. Franja Tuđmana (Franjo Tuđman Bridge) for 
          a quick photo op. 
        The bridge, named in honor of Croatia's 
          first president, is a 518 meters-long, cable-stayed expanse that crosses 
          the Rijeka Dubrovačka inlet at the Port of Gru, just outside Dubrovnik. 
          
        Across the bridge we go, passing by oversized 
          cruise ships and ferries until we come to a full stop just outside Pile 
          Gate, our entrance into Dubrovnik's Grad (Old City), a UNESCO World 
          Heritage Site AND the make-believe King's Landing for the hit television 
          fantasy-drama series Game of Thrones. 
          
        Met by Ida, Insight's expert local guide 
          sporting a bright, canary-yellow raincoat  easy to follow in a 
          crowd  we're taken on a quick, one-hour orientation of the Grad. 
          
        A remarkably well-preserved, late-medieval 
          walled city, Dubrovnik has a regular street layout on the flat  
          all paved in marble  and narrow alleyways that climb, and climb 
          and climb. 
          
        "There are 5,423 steps here in the 
          Grad," Ida tells us, "and if you stay here long enough you 
          can walk them all." 
        Showcasing Renaissance and Baroque architecture, 
          it's hard not to be in awe over the sheer beauty and atmosphere that 
          is uniquely Dubrovnik. 
          
        Magnificent fortifications, monumental 
          gates, the 11th century Rector's Palace, the 14th century Franciscan 
          Monastery, the rebuilt Cathedral of the Assumption, Onofrio Fountain 
          and the statue of 16th century playwright Marin Drić, the 
          so-called Croatian Shakespeare  rub his nose and it just 
          might bring you good luck  are just a few of the jewels tucked 
          inside the walls of this captivating city. 
          
        Our stroll around town ends at the entryway 
          of the ornate, 16th century Sponza Palace where we're greeted by members 
          of the Dubrovnik Tourist Board for an early-evening aperitif of sparkling 
          Prosecco. 
          
        A rectangular building with an open-air 
          courtyard and a loggia, the palace, formerly the Customs House, today 
          serves as the city's archives. 
        If you'll grab a flute, let's have a look 
          around. 
        Insight likes to spread the wealth around 
          whenever it blows into town. That's why sometime on every journey it 
          randomly divides its guests into small groups for a "dine around" 
          to a selection of local eateries. 
          
        My party of eight, plus an Insight "chaperone" 
          hits the shiny marble pavement and makes its way to Konobo 
          Dalmatino, an upscale, "slow food" tavern, where we 
          get to choose our three-course feast a la čarte. 
          
        Given Dubrovnik's location overlooking 
          the Adriatic Sea, I must order fish. And I do. 
          
        I select a starter of marinated anchovies, 
          smoked swordfish and shrimp. My main course is skewered squid and prawns. 
          For dessert, I savor local pears marinated in red wine topped with vanilla 
          ice cream. And, I cap my dinner with an espresso and an "on the 
          house" shot of rakija, a fig brandy popular along the Dalmatian 
          Coast. 
        ivjeli! (Cheers!) 
          
        For complete information on Insight's 112 
          premium and luxury-escorted itineraries around Europe, just click HERE, 
          or call toll free 1-888-680-1241, or contact your travel agent. 
          
        Lord Byron, when he first laid eyes on 
          Dubrovnik, described her as the "Pearl of the Adriatic" and 
          the moniker stuck. I won't argue with the flamboyant Romantic poet, 
          but Dubrovnik could also be called the "Terracotta of the Adriatic." 
          We'll find out tomorrow when we climb the Old City's walls for some 
          bird's-eye views of those iconic baked-earth rooftops that look out 
          to sea. 
         Laku noć (Good night). 
        Related Articles: 
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          Drink, Cycle: The Korcula Winery; The 
          Great Debate on Korčula; Mali 
          Ston, Croatia on the Half Shell; Split, 
          Croatia: Diocletian's Seaside Digs; The 
          Daredevil Divers of the Stari Most; Inside 
          Sarajevo's Tunnel of Hope 
          
           
      
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